When Father Dionysios spoke his voice croaked and cracked like he was on the verge of tears. Years of breathing in the fumes from restoration work on the monastery’s icons were thought to have affected his throat. This didn’t stop him from welcoming his guests though, nattering away as he showed us the monastery and its accompanying museum, winery and conference centre cum art gallery. He insisted we stay for our first taste of Cypriot coffee, a delicately roasted bean best served in small terracotta cups with an accompanying glass of cold water. The Monastery of Chrysorrogiatissa is not a bad location to enjoy a coffee break. Sitting on a bench facing the silent hills of Cyprus, Father Dionysius told us the in-house joke – when monks pass away at the monastery and knock on the doors of heaven they are turned around and sent back from where they came, for this is heaven right here.
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